I am a seventeen year old female, and am interested in becoming a funeral director when I am slightly older.
I have just recently purchased some taxidermy – a stuffed duckling.
I’m pretty excited as it’s my first piece of taxidermy, and so I uploaded a photo of it to twitter.. simply to see, literally two minutes later, a random girl writing bitchy tweets about it, such as ‘what are you doing, taxidermy is not a teenage hobby, stuffed dead animals aren’t ‘cute”
Of course, I disagree. I was just wondering what other peoples opinions may be on the subject?
Just to add – I mean collecting taxidermy, as in to put around the house. Not wearing it.

Rather unusual, obviously, but nothing wrong with liking taxidermy, or wanting to be in the funeral business. Someone has to do these jobs, and better it be people with a real interest.

I guess your next step is to buy the relevant equipment to do some taxidermy yourself. Do you have the use of a good garage or shed to use as a workshop? It could be a profitable hobby/part time job once you get past the initial learning/practise stage.

I want to add onto my taxidermy collection but everything is way too overpriced. Does anyone know a cheap website for high quality taxidermy? Thanks!
Note: Taxidermy is dead animal pelts.

Although your definition of taxidermy is incorrect, yes, I know of such a place.

I mainly want to know if this is a good pelt for soft sculpture taxidermy. Soft taxidermy is when you use a traditional head mount and then stuff the rest of the body and it is optional but you can also add a wire frame and joints to be able to move it around and have it lay or stand in different positions.

Okay, so here is the pelt I want an opinion on.
The wolf pelts description says that it is around 84".
It has all 4 paws, claws, and pads. The ears are turned and the wolf has a scar on his nose. The lips are split and it says that it should be mountable. The hide has been case skinned, commercially tanned and that the leather is soft and stretchy.

I have emailed the seller and he said it would work with soft taxidermy, but I just want another opinion before I spit out my money.

I have been wanting to do a soft mount for awhile, I want to get into taxidermy and before I make a traditional mount, I want to start with soft mounts. I honestly would want to hunt something so it can be a real trophy but I am only a 14 year old girl :/ (might as well start young), and there are no wolves around where I live, the best I could do around here is deer and I live only blocks away from a good place to hunt deer, but I am probably to young.
So instead, I plan to purchase a wolf pelt.

I probably won’t start mounting it right away, at least not until I know for sure what I’m doing, but I plan to purchase it.
Any help will be great, I am mainly wondering if this is a good pelt.

Dan B, I asked again because no one answered what their thoughts on the pelt were. Everyone instead gave me tips on taxidermy and never shared their thoughts. You gave me a long parapragh and at least half and if not more were only about your achievements and what schools you went to.

I changed my question a bit to see if someone will give me info on the pelt, and not taxidermy tips. I respect you and all the people who at least tried to answer, but you and the others never really answered the main question. I am not looking for an answer I like, I didn’t even get an answer.

I understand you know more than me and that it is probably impossible to see if the pelt is good, but I was just trying to see what people thought from the description, like how it says the "lips are split", I don’t know what that means, so I want to know if that is a plus or a fault. Which is a reason I am asking, also because I could have mistaken something and buy something that is worthless

You asked this same exact question once before and I gave you an honest and factual answer based on MANY years in the taxidermy industry where I truly am recognized as one of the icons. Everything I told you in that answer was true. You showed your respect (or lack of it) by voiding your question rather than allow it to be voted on by the readers. But the facts remain, regardless of whether or not you are willing to believe them or accept them. Not even ONE among our Yahoo Answer Team members (including me) can tell you EXACTLY if or not your wolf pelt is suitable for mounting because ONLY an in-hand inspection of the fur and leather will answer ALL the questions you need answered. You admit to being 14. I admit to being 69. I received my diploma from a taxidermy school when I was 16 and founded my own taxidermy school when I was 44. I like to think I know a LOT more about the subject than you do, and if you REALLY want to know the truth rather than just keep fishing for an answer until you hear the one you "like" most, regardless of its integrity, then I suggest you start listening to what you’re being told. I have not mislead you in ANY way. Good luck!

GREAT EXPLANATION! Seriously! Why didn’t you say so with the first question instead of just dumping it? Splitting the lips means that they have been turned inside out so that ALL of the lip got tanned properly to keep the hair along the lips from "slipping". (falling out) To be done right, the ears also must be turned completely inside out and the nose cartilage should be split and excess removed. Even the eye lids are normally "split" for proper tanning. For you to FULLY understand any of this, I HIGHLY recommend you order at least one taxidermy supply company catalog from one of the major suppliers here in the USA. My trying to explain my credentials to you was ONLY to convince you that I really DID know what I was talking about and that every bit of what I tried to explain to you was indeed fact. Trust me on this point, I have achieved a considerable amount of credit and notoriety in my many years as a taxidermist, including first hand involvement in the production of no less than three books, numerous magazine articles, and two DVDs. I do not expect to gain any more recognition by trying to impress a 14 year old girl. And for the record, it might inspire you to know that three of the very best taxidermists I know personally are former World Champions and women. Good luck with your project. I hope I have given you enough information now to make your decision. If not, tell me what else you need or want to know. I really AM here to help! For catalog information, check out Wildlife Artist Supply Company (WASCO) in Monroe, Georgia or Research Mannikins (RMI) in Lebanon, Oregon. You can get their 1-800 numbers by Googling either company. I have worked with and for them both and highly recommend them. They are two companies that sell my DVDs and have my picture in their catalog. Go for it.

Im 18 and I desperately want to teach people (preferably children and teenagers) about animals, ecosystems and evolution, as well as the importance of the environment.

I do have a heavy interest in Taxidermy and would like to use my (legally and ethically obtained!) collection of natural history to teach with.

Somethings I’d like to teach would be Domestication of Foxes and the similarities between the Domestication of Wolves into Dogs. I’d also like to teach about ecosystems of the British Isles, Europe and North America.

I don’t know.
I’m going into a primary school this year to be a Teaching Assistant, (to earn money and see if I like working with kids, which as far as I have found so far; yes I do) but I want to maybe take a course that would help me get into something similar to what I want to do :c

I don’t know what I want >.<
Would gaining work experience at a Zoo be helpful? Or a museum?
Please help.

Side note;
I do love animals (both alive and dead), i do not eat animals that have been raised on farms, it’s against my personal ethics. I was a vegetarian for 8 years and I am now a "Flexitarian" eating meat that’s been hunted legally and humanely.
Respect me, and I’ll respect you.

The US Fish & Wildlife Service Office Of Endangered Species has a ton of on-line information relating not only to US but International Conservation. The Division of Refuges has ecosystem information for the US. And the Office of Law Enforcement has posted information relating to the import/export of threatened or endangered species. If there is a National Wildlife Refuge anywhere near you there may be volunteer opportunities and the chance to teach environmental education. This way you would try volunteering in the subject and see if it is truly what you’d like to do.

I have bagged my first snow goose, and it has been in the freezer for about 4 months now. I just wanted to know how long I can keep it there before it is too far gone to mount. If possible, I would like an answer form a professional taxidermist. Thank you!

Hey B:

Freezers today are made to be what is called "Frost Free". That’s good for properly packaged foods, and especially good for the person who would otherwise be the one to have to defrost the ice-laden freezer about once or twice a year. However, it is NOT good for your goose. To be "frost free" means the freezer has to vacuum away any and all moisture that accumulates in the freezer every time the door is opened and closed and every time someone adds something fresh and unfrozen like a goose. More often than not, most folks NOT in the know about how to properly wrap and seal an item intended for the taxidermist end up doing it wrong. (I had one guy bring me a state record white bass/striper hybrid cross that he had kept in a freezer for more than a year with NO wrap or sealing of any kind. It was like a very sad piece of fish-shaped rawhide….completely dehydrated. It made a POOR mount which he paid full price for. Too bad he didn’t give it the proper care that it deserved right from the start. For the record, B, I received a diploma from a school of taxidermy at the age of 16. {53 years ago) I went on to be the show manager and a judge for one of the World Taxidermy Championships, and an award-winning competitor in three; also the associate editor of the largest and best taxidermy magazine in the world, as well as the founder of a school of taxidermy. There are more than a few discoveries in the taxidermy industry that are accredited to me. I think that probably qualifies me to answer your question, even though I am no longer a "professional taxidermist". I don’t know how you packaged and sealed your snow goose, or if you even did anything to it at all. Therefore, I can’t even begin to tell you how long you can keep it there, or if you have kept it there already FAR too long. The very BEST advice I can give you or anyone about taxidermy is this: "You ONLY get as good as you give!" That simply means that if you expect to get the BEST from a taxidermist, you also have to give him yours. You can NOT give him trash and expect treasure. Know what I mean? To make sure that happens, take your trophy to a taxidermist immediately. He/she knows EXACTLY what to do with it and will make sure it gets the BEST of care. They understand if you don’t have the money at that precise moment and every taxidermist I have ever known has usually been more than willing to work out payment plans with their customers. Take yours to the artist of your choice. Explain the situation. Let the taxidermist advise you accordingly as to the condition they NOW find your snow goose in. They will know if it has potential, or if it is already one gone goose. While you are talking to them, ask their advice as to how they would have liked to see you prepare your bird for the freezer. Most have their own preferences as to wrapping and sealing. But the one thing they will unanimously agree upon is that you get it to them a.s.a.p. Then you won’t have to be asking questions like this here in Yahoo Answers. Good luck with your snow goose. I sincerely hope it is just fine.

We have beetles that clean the meat off the bone and we whiten the skull and mount them on the boards of the persons choosing, we do nothing with fur or any other stuff. And we are reasonable priced. I was just wondering if in Pennslyvania if you had to be licenced, to me its a hobby.

For personal use, i dont believe you need a liscense, but if you are selling items, then you may need a business license which may require a taxidermy license. Also, many of the animals you are working with probably require permitting to have and/or sell. Check with your department of fish and game for specifications.

I want to be a taxidermist. (I know, not expecting that from a 14 year old girl) but I really do want to do that when I’m older. i have a weird pasion for it. So what do I study in? And how long?

For your convenience, the "Pennsylvania Institute of Taxidermy" offers numerous class starts per year.

Students will experience mounting fish, birds, and mammals to completion. Then repeat all sections with mounts of increasing size and and/or difficulty. The additional repletion helps you refine your skills and build your confidence.

What Days and Hours Will you Attend?
Classes are held Monday thru Thursday 8:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. The four day week is beneficial in many ways:
• You could work a part-time job.
• Travel home on the week-ends.
• Go hunting, fishing, hiking or what-ever you wish. *Occasionally class held on Friday following a weekday holiday and during the business course.

Instruction is not rushed and crammed. There is more time for retention and rejuvenation, making the learning process much more enjoyable.

How soon should you register?
Once you have made the decision that our school is right for you, you should start the registration process immediately. Early registration guarantees that you get a spot in the class of your choice. If you have any questions, feel free to ask me.

Best Regards]

Strange request I know but I’ve seen pictures of dried up Stingrays and they look really scary. I would like to use one as a prop for a film I’m doing.

Come on, isn’t it obvious? Ebay! It has it all:


Just do some searches, but that above is a dried stingray. Took me 2 seconds to find!


…and then later while out for a jog, was attacked and killed by a mountain lion? I think this was in California but I’m not entirely certain on that.

It makes for an interesting story, but the woman killed by a cougar while jogging was NOT the same person who instigated the moratorium on mountain lion hunting in California. The moratorium was actually put in place because the California Fish & Game department was accused of guessing how many cougars lived in the state when determining how many tags could be sold without endangering the numbers. The initial request was that C D of F & G do an accurate (?) count before any more license/tag offers could be made. (It is almost impossible to do such a count in one of our largest states of such totally reclusive and elusive animals.) The anti’s got lucky and ran with the ball of opportunity and the rest is history. California is SOOooooo bad that the World Taxidermy Championships will never be held there because the state won’t even allow cougars shot in and mounted from other states to be brought in for temporary shows and displays. Ignorance is NOT bliss! They prove that a LOT in California.

I’m 15 years old and live in Iowa. I plan to get my license sometime this year, although I’m not sure of the process and do not know when or if I can get it yet. But, I was wondering how long it would take me to get the feel for hunting? Enough so that I could go on my own.

Iowa is a GREAT state for hunting. I know that for a fact because I first hunted there (on my own) when I was 12 years old. I started with my older brother’s recurve Bear brand bow. I had taken cottontail rabbits and a gray fox before I was elevated up to my first rifle….a .22 Marlin 39-A Mountie which I had to purchase with my own money. That first bow hunt would have been in 1956 with the rifle purchase being about three years later at 15. (I am just getting ready to turn 68.) In that time, I have been blessed to have a FULL lifetime of experiences in the great outdoors. To name just a few, I received a diploma from a taxidermy school when I was 16 and took that to being the show manager and a judge for the World Taxidermy Championships when I was 40.. I’ve been a master taxidermist, a licensed fishing/hunting guide, owner of a LARGE hunting preserve and a game warden in Alaska. I have taught the NRA Hunter Safety course in Iowa, Minnesota, and Alaska. I have fished and hunted and trapped across the continent, and I am MOST blessed to call Alaska my "Home". My entire adult life reads like the hopes and dreams of most red-blooded outdoor enthusiasts. Everyone tells me to write a book. (I won’t do that here.) My point in saying what I have already is to tell you that for ALL that I have done and for EVERYTHING I have experienced, I STILL learn something new EVERY time I go hunting or fishing. My peers consider me an outdoor expert. But the more I learn, the more I know how much I still don’t know, and by MY estimation, that still makes me an amateur. I can tell you what to do from MY experience based on one simple fact… IT WORKED FOR ME! Read everything you can get your hands on. Subscribe to outdoor magazines. Borrow them anywhere you can. Study the reference books on outdoor recreation in your community or school library. Absorb EVERYTHING you can about hunting. Check out your area for hunting clubs. See if you have a chapter of Pheasants Forever or Ducks Unlimited in your area. Go to the club meetings. Get known and let some of the more experienced hunters know how strong your desire to hunt is burning within you. They will be GLAD and honored to take you along and share their knowledge. Hunt EVERY chance you get. Get to know the local game wardens in your county. Ask them for recommendations. They know the BEST hunters in your neck of the woods. And ask them for the very next Hunter Education class because you are going to need it soon. You are a LUCKY man. What a GREAT & BEAUTIFUL future you have about ready to unfold before you. I wish you the VERY BEST of luck.